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A Happy Return To Mediterranean Roots
by Greg Cox, Correspondent News & Observer/Mouthful

If some ambitious soul were ever to write a culinary history of the Triangle, he or she would surely have to devote an entire chapter to Giorgios Bakatsias. One of the area's most prolific restaurateurs, Bakatsias has opened more than a dozen restaurants over the past two decades. Some have been more successful than others, but their owner's influence on the local dining scene is indisputable. He has pioneered a number of concepts that have since become commonplace.

Cafe Giorgio, Bakatsias' first venture, offered a menu largely inspired by memories of his native Greece. The Cary restaurant closed after a few years, and Bakatsias moved on to focus his attention on Durham and Chapel Hill, where he broadened his palette to include an increasingly varied range of styles, from French bistro (Vin Rouge) to steakhouse (Bin 54) to Asian-inspired street food (Jujube, since sold to partner Charlie Deal). The December opening of Giorgio marks Bakatsias' return to Cary, and to his Mediterranean roots.

To transform his latest concept into reality, Bakatsias lured executive chef Ricky Moore away from GlassHalFull in Carrboro. Moore responded with a seasonally evolving menu that spans the Mediterranean region from Greece to Provence to Morocco. Under the heading of "Rustic Mediterranean Classics," you'll find a rotating selection of nightly specials such as bouillabaisse, pastitsio and Portuguese pork and clam stew. But it's on the main menu, where traditional regional dishes are the springboard for contemporary interpretations, that the chef's creative talents truly shine.

Seafood Stars

Moore's refreshingly different take on fried calamari draws on flavors from one end of the Mediterranean (the Syrian aleppo peppers in their delicately crispy chickpea flour breading) to the other (the Northern Africa harissa that adds a judicious spice note to the accompanying aioli dip). In another small plate offering, mussels are plump and briny-sweet in a broth, subtly perfumed with orange and mint, that begs to be sopped up with a piece of the crusty house-baked bread that arrives warm at your table.

Fittingly, given the menu's Mediterranean focus, a separate entree section is devoted to a selection of fresh seafood, simply grilled and accompanied by skordalia, green beans and Meyer lemon sauce. More elaborate options include Moroccan-inspired chermoula-spiced salmon, and North Carolina striped bass plaki, which serves up a crisp-skinned filet over fennel and fingerling potatoes in an aromatic tomato stew.

At the other end of the flavor spectrum is a bone-in veal chop, grilled to a juicy medium-rare and served over wilted spinach and a truffled ragout of shiitake, cremini and oyster mushrooms.

Vegetarians can get their fix of earthy flavors, too, in the form of house-made wild mushroom ravioli whose filling is enriched with a rosemary-perfumed cabrales cheese fonduta.

It's hard to go wrong, really, but for my money the star of the entree show is the crispy pork "osso buco." A fist-size hunk of slow-cooked pork shank encased in a deep bronze crust redolent of smoked paprika, it's served over a savory stew of white beans and chorizo. Take the bone home if you're shy about gnawing in public.

Visual Flair Trademark

Kitchen miscues are infrequent and typically minor to the point of being debatable - harissa aioli that might have benefited from a little more spice, for instance.

The eclectic wine list is well matched to the menu, with by-the-glass options helpfully arranged by price. Service is remarkably smooth for a new restaurant, though pacing is sometimes a bit off the mark. And the atmosphere - well, if you've eaten in any of Bakatsias' restaurants, you know his trademark flair for visual drama. From the eye-catching variety of pendant chandeliers to the surrealistic paintings on walls painted in shades of terra cotta and verdigris, Giorgio doesn't disappoint.

I'd call it a happy ending to the chapter on Giorgios Bakatsias, but I have a feeling his contribution to the local dining scene is far from finished

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Cary Citizen
Food: Flavors of Mediterranean at Giorgio
Lindsey Chester Food, Goes Local April 14, 2010

Cary, NC- I recently had the pleasure of meeting Ricky Moore, Executive Chef for Giorgio as he was passing out handmade fritters at the Western Wake Farmer's Market. I was so charmed, that I decided to follow up with a visit to the newly opened restaurant at the northwest corner of Cary Parkway and High House Road.
Here's my take, in five words: something totally different for Cary.
Flavors of the Mediterranean

Walking into Giorgio, you are greeted with colors of the Mediterranean Sea: turquoise blue walls, white tables, dark wood floors and coral accents. Gone are the worn booths, replaced by snappy upholstered chairs and wood tables. Extensive renovations have been done to this location, which many may remember as Mama Mia's or Jasper's from years gone by. But this is something different.

Their Mission

Moore says the offerings here are "New Mediterranean" and the dishes take their inspiration from the 21 countries that border that sea including Spain, Portugal, Italy, Greece as well as North Africa. Owner Giorgio Bakatsias (for whom the restaurant is named) states: "The allure of the land, the inspired flavors from Greece, Spain, Italy and France. The aromas that dance with the romance of the streets, celebrating the possibilities... tomatoes, garlic, eggplants, peppers and onions sprinkled with oregano and thyme... This is the essence of life and flavor we bring to GIORGIO in Cary. I call it new Mediterranean cooking." They aim to be "courageous in what they do", and they have partnered with the local farmers' markets to provide fresh seasonal offerings, so their menu will change according to what is available locally.

Small Plates- Big Flavor

When speaking with Chef Moore, I was intrigued by the idea of the "small plates" section on their menu. These can be shared amongst diners, a concept that would work well for a "ladies' night out". So we decided on several of these, and then chose the Entree of the Day, "Pasticcio", as a main course to share as well.

"Roasted Red Peppers" with feta and dill did not disappoint. I only wish I had saved my crusty bread to soak up all the flavorful olive oil that this dish was drizzled in.

Our second small plate was the "Scallops a la Plancha" served with a crisp fennel salad. The scallops were tender and had a faint hint of smoked bacon served atop slices of citrus, but the real surprise was the fennel which was subtle and crisp and a great counterpoint to the smoky scallops.

We followed these with the "Baby Beet and Watercress Salad" which arrived with baby beets ringing the plate and a combination of dressed greens placed on top of a spread of goat cheese and topped with toasted pine nuts. We fought over the beets.

And then for the main course- the pastitsio was baked in a ramekin and served together with an arugula salad. Being from New Jersey, I have had my share of pastitsio- but this was a far cry from the "Greek lasagna" that I remember. A crunchy cheese crust atop rigatoni noodles mixed with a cheesy creamy sauce filled with tomotoes, mushrooms and lamb was by far the highlight of the evening. So glad I talked my dining partner into this dish!

Giving Back

They're open for dinner during the week and brunch on Sunday. Chef Ricky Moore mentioned they have contacted the local area churches and that when folks come in for brunch after church, 10% of the cost of their meal will be donated to their place of worship. Now THAT'S something different!

http://www.carycitizen.com/2010/04/14/food-flavors-of-mediterranean-at-giorgio/

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Restaurant Profile: GIORGIO
Cary Magazine, March/April 2010 Issue

When it comes to the Triangle-area dining scene, Giorgios Bakatsias is considered among the most innovative and enduring local restaurateurs. The recent opening of Giorgio in Cary, his latest destination, adds Mediterranean cuisine to a culinary resume that already includes French, Asian and American, to name a few.

Giorgio represents a turning back of the clock for Greek-born Bakatsias (pronounced bah-kah-SHAH), who previously ran popular Cary eatery Cafe Giorgios in the 1980s. "It wasn't a question of 'if' but 'when' I returned to Cary," Bakatsias said during a recent exclusive conversation with Cary Magazine. "We have been delighted by the way people have embraced and welcomed us as the new neighborhood restaurant."
To watch Bakatsias interact with his staff and patrons is to observe someone remarkably poised, gracious and passionate about serving others. Perhaps no one is better positioned to revitalize the 7,000-square-foot Preston-situated locale notorious for short-lived eateries, most recently a seafood restaurant.
"I'm convinced this is the perfect freestanding location for a successful venture, and I absolutely love this building," Bakatsias said. "Our goal is to provide quality food, excellent service and a great value, and our guests seem to really appreciate that."

Sharing his passion is award-winning Executive Chef Ricky Moore, a onetime U.S. Army cook, graduate of the prestigious Culinary Institute of America and former contestant of the Food Network's Iron Chef America. A native of New Bern, N.C, Moore brings a steadfast dedication to serving up bold, healthy and distinctive offerings.

"Our commitment is to use the freshest, simple ingredients, drawing on flavors from Greece, Italy, Spain and France," Moore said, adding that he endeavors to find local provisions whenever possible. "We constantly strive to be resourceful in the kitchen and responsive to what the guests want. Ultimately, we're all about exceeding the guests' expectations time and again."
Not surprisingly, Giorgio's striking decor is awash with vibrant-hued walls, dark wood floors and warm, contemporary light fixtures. Added touches like reclaimed wood tables, white leather chairs and surrealistic artwork further showcase Bakatsias' voguish flair. "I wanted the restaurant's ambience to capture the essence of the Mediterranean region," he said.

An open, multilevel dining room, spacious full-service bar area, lounge/sunroom and several private occasion rooms offer patrons plenty of options to enjoy. "The restaurant has various zones so the guests can have a relaxing experience," Bakatsias explained.

As for the bill of fare, a mouth-watering trio cheese plate featuring feta, aged Manchego and Mahon makes for a great starter. Small plate options include the savory spetzofai, a sausage-based stew with kale, cannellini beans, garlic and red pepper as well as sea scallops a la plancha, which is cooked on a hot seasoned griddle and served with fennel citrus salad.

"The a la plancha dishes are cleanly executed, very healthy and don't contain much fat," Chef Moore said. "We don't use any butter or cream whatsoever during preparation."

So, what about the main course selections? Look no further than the turnip-, apricot- and pomegranate-infused glazed lamb shank; the chermoula spiced salmon with chickpea and leek ragout; and the seared flat-iron steak with Spanish ham, rapini, carrots and Rioja wine sauce. Another winning selection: vegetarian-friendly wild mushroom ravioli with rosemary, shallots, artisanal cheese and a sweet wine reduction.
The restaurant's wide-ranging wine list contains about 100 bottles featuring abundant varietals from California, France, Italy and Australia, among others. With more than two dozen labels available by the glass, choices abound for the casual consumer as well. Giorgio also offers eight beers on tap, from Blue Moon and Yuengling to Fat Tire and Sierra Nevada.

Weekly specials include $4 specialty cocktails on Tuesdays, with $5 wines by the glass on Wednesdays. On Thursdays, $6 tapas are available at the bar.

Live music plays in the bar area Fridays and Saturdays beginning at 9 p.m. "The later the evening gets, the more festive the mood becomes," Bakatsias said with a laugh. "We want to become the place where people gather to have a great time."

Open for lunch Monday through Friday, Giorgio offers dinner service Monday through Saturday. Reservations are recommended.

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Giorgios Bakatsias is at it again, and this time he's getting back to his roots--
in more ways than one.
by Greg Cox, Staff Writer News & Observer

Raleigh, NC--The prolific restaurateur has opened more than a dozen restaurants over two decades, and has broadened his palette to include a range of styles, from French bistro (Vin Rouge) to steakhouse (Bin 54) to Asian (Jujube, since sold to partner Charlie Deal). The late December opening of Giorgio (4300 NW Cary Parkway; 650-2129; www.giorgiocary.com) marks Bakatsias' return to his Mediterranean roots.

To develop a menu inspired by his native Greece and other cuisines of the region, Bakatsias lured rising star chef Ricky Moore away from GlassHalFull in Carrboro. Moore's initial offering spans braised lamb shank, chicken tagine and spetzofai, a Greek stew of country pork sausage, peppers and onions. Seafood is well-represented by swordfish plaki, whole roasted dourade with fresh bay and fennel, shellfish paella and grilled fresh seafood. True to Bakatsias form, a la carte vegetable sides such as sauteed rapini, barley and wild mushrooms in rosemary butter and Moroccan-spiced carrots are noteworthy in their own right.

Contemporary decor is another Bakatsias trademark, and Giorgio features elements fans of his other restaurants will recognize: oversize barrel-shaded pendant lights reminiscent of Bin 54, for instance, and vibrant surrealistic paintings by Hillsborough artist Henrik Fantazos, whose works also hang in Parizade.
"I like the warm Mediterranean colors," Bakatsias says of the sunny shades splashed about the multilevel dining room, full service bar and two private dining rooms.

Giorgio marks Bakatsias' return, after nearly 20 years, to Cary, where Cafe Giorgios, his first Triangle area restaurant, flourished in the late '80s and early '90s. Judging by the overwhelming response to invitations to a pre-opening dinner, it appears that Cary is glad to have him back.

Giorgio is open for dinner Monday through Saturday, with plans to add lunch service January 18th.

Greg Cox is the restaurant critic and food writer for The News & Observer.
He can be reached at ggcox@bellsouth.net. Read more about the Triangle dining scene at

blogs.newsobserver.com/mouthful

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CARY NEWS
By Elizabeth Shestak, Correspondent

Restaurateur Giorgios Bakatsias Brings Distinctive Fare To Cary

Cary, NC--Giorgios Bakatsias has always been optimistic. As a child in his native Greece, he walked a perilous path to a mountaintop church to light candles and ring the bell, with no worry about stumbling or rocks falling. His grandfather, a silent man, taught him to "focus on the result you want to see," he said.
When he immigrated to the United States as a teen, he believed in the vastness of what is possible.
"Coming to America has always been this kind of dream, this glorious dream," Bakatsias said from his home in northern Durham, while sipping white tea in one of his gardens. "That was my path of education."
"I don't think that flame ever burned out," he said. "I saw it as a country of abundance with no limitations."
Bakatsias (pronounced bah-kah-SHAH) has had a hand in creating more than 35 restaurants since the 1980s. Out of dozens of them, a few remain wildly successful, such as Cafe Parizade and Vin Rouge in Durham, as well as Spice Street and Bin 54 in Chapel Hill. He sold some, and many others faltered and closed, including three venues in Cary some 25 years ago. Bakatsias is not deterred by the failures. He moves on to the next project, having learned new lessons while embracing new possibilities.

His next restaurant, Giorgio, marks his return to Cary. The 7,000 square-foot restaurant at 4300 NW Cary Parkway will have the flare his projects have come to embody, calling upon the saturated colors, tastes and textures of the Mediterranean.

He had thought about returning to Cary ever since he left, but needed a serendipitous event to prompt action. When he happened upon a location near the town's Preston community, the dynamic building spoke to his inner artist. He has since teamed up with Durham designer Heather Garrett, but also brings much of his own vision. With the help of an investor, he bought the building outright, and he started planning.
"If there's anything that I've learned from the past, it's not about wishing," he said. "It's about being decisive and accurate."

The dreamer has honed his business skills through the years, adjusting his expectations to be more realistic. Without the experience of his first Cary restaurants, he might not have made wiser decisions down the road. Cafe Giorgios and Rouge En Noir in MacGregor Village were closed in 1991 for his failure to pay taxes. He also blames internal leadership problems, as well as difficulty working with the Cary town government.

Columns, his third Cary venue, belonged in London or New York, he said with a rueful smile. But times have changed, and Cary is much more than the town of 4,000 it once was.
"I think the market here is as sophisticated as anywhere," he said recently, tearing at some bay leaves while the buzz and bang of saws and hammers filled the background at Giorgio, a dramatic space with teals, oranges and golds and a rich, dark bar.

He's also aware of the unique population of Cary: "Not many people were born here."

Giorgio opens next month and will offer lunch and dinner seven days a week, as well as Sunday brunch. There will be a late night menu. He'll give folks a reason to get a babysitter.
"We couldn't be happier about this. He has a great reputation for wonderful food at a variety of restaurants in the Triangle, and we've missed having him as part of the Cary scene," said Cary Mayor Harold Weinbrecht. "I personally can't wait to go there."

As for the food, think Mediterranean with a twist: braised meats, fresh salads, and hearty pastas inspired by Spain, Italy and Greece. "Food you can eat every day," he said.
Bakatsias grew up in the rural Greek village of Karista, and he credits his mother with his love of fresh, simple foods. He recalls how she carried her children on her shoulders while she watered and picked vegetables from the family garden, making staples like tomato paste and bread from scratch. His father brought Bakatsias' two older brothers to the United States first. Bakatsias followed at age 12 with his mother and sister. The family settled in Burlington, where they lived above a diner they operated.
"I had amazing parents," he said. "They are always with me."

As a teen, he returned to Greece to train for soccer -- he had aspirations of playing professionally in Europe -- before coming back to the states for college. He would go on to play for Appalachian State University and Elon University while studying business and psychology. But he never graduated.
The lack of a degree did not seem to hinder his success: he opened his first restaurant at age 21, and has been at it ever since.

"George is a great host and seems to open restaurants because of an insatiable desire to entertain guests," said Charlie Deal, who recently opened Dos Perros restaurant in Durham. Deal partnered with Bakatsias years ago to open Jujube, where Bakatsias remains a minority partner. "I've often likened running a restaurant to hosting a party each night, and George certainly embodies that vibe."
For someone who is a gregarious entertainer, Bakatsias is at heart a private person. Unmarried, his restaurants are like his children. He lives in north Durham and has 10 gardens where he grows herbs for his restaurants, as well as hens.

"I have to have a stillness in order to have that constant movement around me," he said.

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TRIANGLE BUSINESS JOURNAL
by Jeff Drew

Giorgios Returning To Cary With New Restaurant

Cary, NC--Serial restaurateur Giorgios Bakatsias, whose culinary empire has established a stronghold in Durham and Chapel Hill, is making a return to Cary. Giorgios Hospitality Group said Wednesday that it will open a restaurant named Giorgio in November near the intersection of High House Road and Cary Parkway in west Cary.

Giorgio will be located in a 7,000-square-foot building that has been home to several restaurants over the years, with perhaps the most notable being a Chuck'Em sports eatery and bar that was partially owned by then-North Carolina State University football Coach Chuck Amato. Bakatsias will try to bring to the Preston area of Cary the stability and profitability he has found with restaurants such as Parizade, Vita, Nasher Museum Cafe and Vin Rouge in Durham and Bin 54 and Spice Street in Chapel Hill.
He also will be looking to chase the ghosts of his previous foray into Cary, which ended nearly two decades ago The Internal Revenue Service temporarily seized Bakatsias' Cary restaurants in 1991 after trying to collect delinquent taxes. In 1992, he sought to reorganize the restaurant company Bakatsias of Durham Inc.
Bakatsias has since rebuilt and enjoyed staying power in the western part of the Triangle. For his return to Cary, he is converting a space most recently used as a seafood restaurant into an eatery that will serve what he likes to call "new Mediterranean cooking."

"It is the melding of the traditions of European cultures, specifically those of Spain, Italy and Greece, and applying a contemporary approach, using fresh local ingredients and today's healthy sensibilities," Bakatsias said in a news release.

Giorgio will offer seating for 225 patrons, Entree prices will range from $7 to $24 at dinner. Lunch entrees will cost about $8.

"We are pleased to be able to return to Cary with a restaurant that is so well suited to its passion for life," Bakatsias said.

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